Misconceptions are always a huge part of traveling. Misconceptions about what living arrangements will be like, about how easy catching a train at 8:00 in the morning will be, about how much money you will need for food each day, or the amount of clothes you can get by with... the list is endless. However, the biggest misconceptions tend to be about another country's people and culture. Hardly a day goes by without me discovering stereotypes and impressions I had previously held to be embarrassingly wrong.
Now, I am not saying before this trip I was ignorant or narrow-minded--that's not the case at all. Still, it's hard not to come in without SOME preconceptions about what to expect from people when overseas. I mean, one can only watch classic animated Disney movies so many times before a set of stereotypes is created, especially about the French (OK... the bad guys have crazy eyes, pencil-thin mustaches, and laugh like "HON HON HON" while the good guys always kiss a girl's hand and say "mon cheri"....got it). Keeping with the theme, in the US, the French have a reputation for being unwilling hosts, especially towards Americans. And I can't tell you how many people told me that it's impossible to get the French to speak in any language other than their native tongue. In my experiences, both of these misconceptions couldn't be further from the truth.
On Friday, Michael and I took a train from Barcelona, Spain to Narbonne, France. There, we picked up a car for 6 days of unlimited driving freedom. After a quick stopover in Carcassonne (a beautifully restored Roman/medieval city), we drove 6 hours along the Pyrenees and Atlantic coast to Bordeaux. Here, we met with Helene, who is the mother of Michael's co-worker. Though neither of us had ever met her, nor even talked with her, none of this mattered to Helene. From the moment we drove into her garden (a gorgeous green area filled with roses, cherry trees, fig trees, and peach trees, walled in the middle of a bustling city), Helene greeted us with eager hospitality.
For 2 days in Bordeaux, we were treated like close family friends. Helene gave us the keys to her house, the freedom to come and go as we pleased, our own private rooms, and access to her fully stocked fridge. Dinner with her was, simply put, amazing. In typical French fashion, we enjoyed 3 hour meals with 4 or 5 courses, during which Helene taught us the proper way to eat (Champagne is always an apertif, never an after-dinner drink…salad should come after the main dish, not before). A typical meal reads like something you would find in a 5-star Parisian restaurant:
Sliced melon (from the Bordeaux region), served with Champagne
Fresh French bread served with beef pate and beets
Puff pastry stuffed with grilled pork and ham, served with red wine
Mixed salad with apples, beets, and an almond-vinaigrette
4 types of cheese with bread and more wine
Locally made artisan pistachio ice-cream with a strong cup of black coffee
Needless to say, dinner-time was my favorite part of Bordeaux, though the entire stay was incredible thanks to our gracious host. Luckily for us, Helene is visiting her daughter, son-in-law, and granddaughter in Virginia later this summer, so we will be able to return the favor (or at least attempt to).
After leaving Bordeaux, we made the 6 hour drive to Lyon, where we had our first Couch Surfing experience. For those unfamiliar with CS, it is a sign-up service with which a person can offer their couch/bed/spare-room/floor to travelers and choose those they want to host. On the other end, you can also “surf” those offered places. It’s a great way to meet people and see the non-touristy side of a city, all while saving money.
In Lyon, we were lucky enough to be hosted by Chloe, an energetic and friendly 23 year-old who has a passion for traveling, the English language, and the United States. Thankfully, Chloe happened to be on holiday from school, so she was able to spend the entire time with Michael and I, showing us around Lyon’s sights during the day and taking us out for some fun during the night. The evening we arrived, we also met 8 or so of Chloe’s friends, most of whom went out with us to the music bar (which happened to be a boat docked on the Rhone, one of Lyon’s two rivers). Chloe and her friends warmly welcomed us and kept us involved in all of their conversations (which were all carried out in well-spoken English. Chloe and Co. appreciated the chance to speak English, Michael and I appreciated the fact that we didn't have to test out our horrible French). The social aspect of CS is what makes it such a unique and special experience, one that I hope to get involved with on the hosting end sometime in the future. Going from strangers to friends and travel buddies in such a short time with Chloe and her friends was really fun, and I hope that they come out to the US soon so that I can take them out to Chloe’s favorite restaurant, McDonald’s.
Even in my relatively short 25-day jump through the UK, Ireland, Spain, and France, I can safely say that traveling is one of the best things a person can do for themselves. It is an eye-opening experience that has allowed me to meet some great people who have shattered previously held misconceptions and unfair stereotypes, all while becoming new-found friends.
So, what have Michael and I done since my last post? Lots of beach in Barcelona, lots of driving in southern France. Because I don’t have a ton of time, I’ll give it to you in itinerary form:
May 23: train from Madrid to Barcelona
May 24: La Boqueria (large open-air market packed with fresh produce/fish/meats) in the morning for breakfast and to pick out stuff to make for dinner. Beach all day, back to hostel to cook dinner, out for a few drinks
May 25: see May 24
May 26: see May 24
May 27: Train from Barcelona to Narbonne, France, where we picked up our rental car. Carcassonne (a beautifully restored walled medieval city dating back to Roman times)
May 28: Drive to Bordeaux along the edge of the Pyrenees. Relaxation, dinner, and some Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers with Helene.
May 29: Walking tour of downtown Bordeaux, visit to the beach and HUGE sand dune, dinner with Helene
May 30: 6 hour drive to Lyon (after a failed attempt to visit wineries near Bordeaux), out to the boat-bar with Chloe and friends
May 31: Walking tour of Lyon, drinks and conversation at home with Chloe and friends
June 1: Beautiful drive through French Alps to Nice, France. Awesome Thai food for dinner (which was capped off with complimentary digestifs served in some… interesting shot glasses)
June 2: Four trains to Cinque Terre (Riomaggiore), Italy. 2 hours of hiking along seaside trails.
June 3: Explored Riomaggiore, much needed internet café (we just booked Paris…four days before we are set to arrive), and dinner with Jin and Linda, two girls we met at our hostel.
TODAY: Train to Rome, visit to the Vatican, climbed to the top of the cupola
So yes, we have continued to have a great time. This trip has been, the vast majority of the time, extremely relaxing and enjoyable. I am eating non-stop, though I’ve yet to gain weight because of all the walking we have done. And though I wasn’t a wine guy before, I have been trying a lot while in Spain, France, and Italy. Like I told my sister, a glass of wine is cheaper than soda or bottled water, so why not, right? I just might make it back to the US slightly more cultured.
